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AT HOME IN THE NORTHERN KITCHEN

Chiles, Rice & Kitchen Notes

A few useful foundations for cooking from Mama Rita’s collection.

Know your chiles

Chile colorado
A regional name for red chile, not a guarantee of one variety. Check the recipe and the actual dried chile. Rita’s original asado and tamales retain their own chile choices.
Guajillo / dried mirasol
A red chile used for bright, moderately hot sauces. Names vary by region and seller.
Ancho
Dried ripe poblano, with a broad shape and rounded, fruity flavor.
Pasilla
A long, dark dried chile, distinct from chile pasado. Market labels can be inconsistent.
Chile pasado
Green chile that has been roasted, peeled, and dried. Rehydrate before using; it brings a characteristic flavor to northern stews.
Chilaca, Anaheim, and poblano
Fresh green chiles. Anaheim is a practical alternative where chilaca is unavailable; poblano is wider and useful for stuffing. They are not identical in flavor or heat.
Piquín, chiltepín, and chile de árbol
Small amounts can add considerable heat. Begin cautiously and taste the finished sauce before adding more.

Remove stems and unwanted seeds from dried chiles. Warm briefly without burning, soften in hot water, and blend thoroughly. Chile heat varies from batch to batch.

Simple Northern-Style Rice

Makes 4 side servings. Rinse and drain 1 cup long-grain white rice. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a covered saucepan; sauté ¼ cup finely chopped onion, then the rice, until lightly golden. Stir in 1 minced garlic clove for 30 seconds. Add 1¾ cups unsalted broth and ½ teaspoon fine salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, turn heat low, and cook 15–18 minutes. Remove from heat and rest covered 10 minutes before fluffing. Follow the rice package if its liquid requirement differs.

Green Rice

Makes 4 side servings. Blend ½ cup loosely packed parsley or cilantro leaves with 1¾ cups unsalted broth. Follow the rice method above, using 1 tablespoon butter in place of oil and the herb broth for the liquid. Finish with 1–2 teaspoons lime juice to taste. These rice sides are editorial home-kitchen versions of the accompaniments in the collection.

At the table

Offer warm flour tortillas, beans, lime, and salsa. Keep extra-hot chile on the side so everyone can choose their heat. Cheese-based dishes usually need less additional salt.

Storage & reheating